MatterHackers Alec Steele's 3D Printed Vise

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Digital Design files can be accessed using MatterControl Software or MatterControl Sync. When logged in, Digital Designs can be found within the "Purchased" folder of your MatterControl Cloud Library.

3D print your own vise just like the one collaborated on by Alec Steele and MatterHackers

Price: FREE
License: License To Make
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Design Files (7)
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Dynamic Jaw.stl
Dynamic Jaw.stl
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Static Jaw.stl
Static Jaw.stl
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Meatball and Leadscrew.stl
Meatball and Leadscrew.stl
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Nut.stl
Nut.stl
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Handle.stl
Handle.stl
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2x Handle Knob.stl
2x Handle Knob.stl
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Washer.stl
Washer.stl
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We collaborated with Alec Steele to create a 3D model of a vise combining all of his favorite features across his many vises, then we cast it bronze, sanded it, and polished to create a beautiful desk vise. Due to popular demand, you can now 3D print a vise of your own! This set of parts has been modified to be as 3D printable as possible with minimal post-processing.

You may be able to get away with printing without supports, but for the ideal surface, supports are recommended for the Static Jaw, Dynamic Jaw, Handle Knobs, and Meatball and Leadscrew. If you need some help with adhesion, print "Handle" and "Meatball and Leadscrew" with a brim.

In testing, the leadscrew snapped off the meatball with minimal effort, so you have two options: pint it with 2 perimeters for a desk toy, or print with at least 4 perimeters to give it enough strength so it stays together.

Only three pieces of hardware are needed: two M3x10 socket head cap screws are needed for the handle knobs, and an M3 set screw for the washer.

Assembly:

  1. Slide the Nut into the Static Jaw. You may need to lightly sand some of the faces to get it to slide in easily.
  2. Insert the Meatball and Leadscrew into the Dynamic Jaw while fitting the Washer into the small slot at the start of the Dynamic Jaw. Though you shouldn't need to, you can sand the smooth part of the shaft or the holes to loosen up the fit.
  3. With the Meatball pressed up against the Jaw, move the washer in the direction of the meatball and secure it in place with the M3 set screw into the Leadscrew.
  4. Screw one Knob onto the handle using one M3x10 screw.
  5. Slide the Handle through the Meatball 
  6. Screw on the the second Knob with the last M3x10 screw.
  7. Make sure the leadscrew is cleaned of any print artifacts for a smooth motion.
  8. Slide the Dynamic Jaw into the Static Jaw, threading the Leadscrew into the Nut. Once they start sliding together, you can glue the nut in place, though not required.

You can watch Part 1 and Part 2 to 3D Printing a Bench Vise right here:

Questions View All Responses

Is the Lite6 the same size of the V6

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Which style thermistor is included in this kit? Cartridge or the little glass ball?

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Will this fit the MP mini V2? How long are the wires and what are the terminal types?

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Can I print PETG (235-255C)?

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Are there any upgrades that could allow this extruder to work above the 240 degree limit without causing any damage, such as all-metal heatsinks?

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Will it bolt up to an ANET A8 without issues?

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Do you know it this will fit in my Robo 3D r 1 plus ?

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Will this work with ender 3?

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Is this compatible with Printrbot simple metal?

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I purchased one in 2015 (part No 44517002 for DiVinci printer). Now want to use it on Hictop Prusa i3 (with Marlin firmware). Is the one I have 12v or 24v?

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In Marlin firmware, what temperature table should be used with the 100K Semitec 104GT2 NTC thermistor? I've seen many sites and forums say to use table 5, but I find the temperature at the nozzle (checked with K-type thermocouple)to be between 4 and 15 degrees lower than what the printer says it is when using temp table 5.

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I notice that under the Electronics column, heating wires are not included. Is this true? Also, there an installation manual I can download?

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Does this fit a cr10s

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Doea it come fully assembled?

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Hi, do you guys match prices with filastruder? I'm interested in ordering a couple lite6 hotends. Thanks

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The Original Prusa i3 MK1 says it comes with an E3D Lite. Is this the same hot end?

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Does this come with a 12v or 24v fan?

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i am trying to set it up with my prusa I3 and the thermistor is reading craz temps, what other type of themistor did you use in the past?

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Does it Include the PTFE tubing? I dont see it on the included list

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Why, after removing Teflon tube , is it so difficult to replace.

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Does the E3D lite hot end fit a Oneup 3d printer?

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Does this fit a Robo R1 3d printer?

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What size nozzle comes with this?

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Does it include a thermistor plus wiring to it?

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Does it include a fan, shroud or nozzle?

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Is this 12v or 24v?

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