BASF BASF Black Ultrafuse PET CF Filament - 2.85mm (0.75kg)

PETG (polyethylene terephthalate) is an exceptionally tough and sturdy printing material which serves as an excellent alternative to PLA and ABS. By adding carbon fibers to the filament, BASF has created amazingly resilient printed parts. Best of all, using PETG as the base means your prints have very low shrinkage, little to no odor, and extremely strong layer bonds.

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Product No. M-PX7-6AR7
Filament Diameter: 2.85mm
1.75mm
2.85mm

PET CF combines the ease of printing of PLA with the stiffness of ABS, but has been even further enhanced to have impact resistance, and high tensile strength due to the Carbon Fiber additive. PET also features very low moisture absorption, which is excellent for long term use. Finally, prints have a lovely surface finish that make ensure the material isn't just for functional prints, but also aesthetic applications as well.

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California Residents

Warning: Cancer and Reproductive Harm www.P65Warnings.ca.gov

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The TDS says "Print Temp 230C +/-10" and "Bed Temp 70C +/-10". The images on this web page say "Hot End Temp 250C +/-10" and "Bed Temp 50C +/-10". Is this inconsistency a hallmark of the MH PRO series TPU???

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What is the difference between the MH PRO series TPU and the MH Build Series TPU?

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I have had generally good luck with this material. I love the properties of it. I would like some advice on reducing some stringing. I use Prusa MK3S with the Generic FLEX setting. I get a big string from the purge line to the skirt and from the skirt to the print. I am using a 240 degree print temp and my speeds are all around 30.

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Is this designed to be printed in a machine with a bowden extruder?

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I ordered this material (Matter Hackers Pro Series, 1.75mm, TPU, Gray) for my Bambu Lab X1E printer. When I tried to load it into the AMS, it failed and got stuck. I needed to disassemble the filament tubing to get it unstuck. Is there something that could be done to use this material with the Bambu Lab X1E printer? Perhaps mounting it to the rear spool instead if in the AMS...? Do you have any experience with this material for this printer? Thank you. Brian Wixom brianwixom@gmail.com

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I discovered that Metthackers pro clear TPU is easy to break, while the cheap inland white TPU is nearly impossible to break. So I don't get it, the NylonX is major strong and I use it as the backbone of everything, but I don't understand how a cheap filament, precisely inland white TPU, outperforms mettahackers pro series in utility function. It prints better, but I can make the cheap stuff print near perfect with extra attention to settings. So I ask, whats really up with mettahackers TPU, it concerns me because I was going to invest in Mettahackers Nylon and now I am in doubt. I simply want to know why the cheap stuff was way beter than mettahackers pro series?? Please.

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Can this be used as a base, with a layer change/stop and then PLA printed on top of it? I want a flexible bottom to a specific print, but I don't want the entire print flexible...

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What's the shore hardness?

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What are temperature limits for printed parts?

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How well do TPU printed objects hold up against gasoline and oils? Thinking about making an intake boot? I'd like it to hold around 100 psi. any recommendations?

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What is the chemical resistance to water rating?

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What is the Light Transmittance Rating of this material? This is a commonly reported property, usually expressed as % of total light transmittance. 100% = perfect clarity, all light crosses through 0% = perfect opacity, no light crosses through.

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Where is the Safety Data Sheet?

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1.7mm as delivered, which made it very prone to kinking. Not printable with the EZR Struder on an Ender 3, with any temperature or nozzle. 1.8mm & above seems necessary with flexible filament. Thicker is better because it needs to transfer force to the nozzle. It might work with a dual drive direct extruder with real tight passages.

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What is the Young's modulus of the material

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What is the moisture level it ships with?

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