ColorFabb Slice Engineering Mosquito Magnum Hotend Kit - Standard Kit

I would adjust the temp down by 5 and see how it works. adjust from there. Also your retraction but only do one setting at a time.

Increase travel speed, increase temp to 240. High temp keeps it less sticky and stringy, it becomes more liquidy, travel speed essentially means moves so fast it cannot cling to the nozzle.

Oh, increase speed to 40mm

This can indeed be printed successfully in a bowden printer.

I had mixed luck with Bowden and 0.4 nozzle. It'd bunch up at the gears even at 15ms speeds. 0.8 is a bit big for the smaller parts I want to print but this works. 0.6 may be optimal sized.

Typically TPU only gets "stuck" if it is wet. In this case you should put the TPU in a filament dryer during the print and bypass the AMS, or use the new AMS from the H2D that has built-in drying.
Bambu also sells an AMS-compatible version of their TPU.

Look at the filaments ratings. Inland White has a high ShoreHardness (>100) so it is tougher but also less flexible with less of a rebound. You didn't try the Pro Series Clear as it hasn't come out yet so we don't know it's statistics. For all filaments you need to look at what properties you need and go from there. It can also greatly matter how long you dried it for and how recently you dried it. TPU is highly Hygroscopic.

This a big deal for both TPU and Nylon. There's PA6, PA66, PA6/66, PA12, etc, etc, etc.

No, TPU and PLA will not adhere to each other.

TPU will adhere to PLA and most all materials. The bed temperature should be set for the material that touches the bed. If printing directly on top of TPU it may be advisable to still turn on the bed heat to 60-65°C to help with controlling layer cooling. Depending on your bed choice TPU typically adheres more the higher the bed temperature, it may be advisable to use a release agent such as glue stick if a large potion is touching the bed.

95A

There are TPU filaments that are specifically designed for automotive applications with datasheets listing different chemical resistances. Ninjatek does provide chemical resistant information for their filaments.

You won't find this for any FDM material as the light transmittance varies more with printer setup than anything else. Nozzle coating, print speed, print temp, enclosed chamber, heated chamber, etc are all features that will effect the number. Then there's the obvious things like wall count and post-processing.

I've had the same issue, the EZR Struder is definitely better than the stock one but you still need to stand there and constantly watch it when using a really flexible filament and even then its hit or miss. If you want to print flexibles reliably you pretty much have to do direct drive.

I have been using an AtomStack printer that supports 1.75 and 2.85. The 2.85 does great for TPU filaments including very ones that are Shore 50A.

1130 PSI in for normal stresses according to the data sheet

Young's modulus == elastic modulus == tensile modulus = 1130 PSI from data sheet.

It does ship with a desiccant inside the spool. Though, as with any hygroscopic, despite the packaging, it is always a good idea to dry the material before use.
Drying should be 50C for >4 hours

No luck with Ultimaker3. Dried for 16+ hours (new roll) at recommended Print Dry temp for TPU, and can still hear the crackling as it comes out. Winding is a mess as well. Build Series TPU works perfect for me, will stick with that.