E3D Desert Tan NylonG Glass Fiber Filament - 2.85mm (0.5kg)

The E3D & Bambu Lab ObXidian High Flow HotEnd is a performance upgrade for Bambu Lab's X1 and P1 series 3D printers. It boosts flow rates by 60%, offers improved durability with a special coating, and fits easily into existing setups without modifications. Compatible with X1, X1 Carbon, P1S, and P1P models.

  • Officially Approved & Licensed Bambu product
  • Increased hotend's flowrate by 60%
  • ObXidian hardened tipped nozzle
Price: $64.00 (with add-ons)
Availability: Only 3 left in stock.
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Product No. M-JS3-51MZ
Nozzle Size: 0.40mm
0.40mm
0.60mm

Features of the E3D High Flow Obxidian Hotend for Bambu Labs:

  • Speed Improvement: With a 60% increase in volumetric flow rate, you can print faster while maintaining print quality, making it ideal for users looking to boost their productivity.
  • Enhanced Durability: The E3DLC™ coating on the nozzle and heater block offers superior resistance to wear from abrasive materials, extending the lifespan of the hotend and reducing the need for frequent replacements.
  • Improved Performance: The high flow technology ensures more reliable and consistent extrusion, which is crucial for achieving high-quality prints, especially when printing complex or detailed objects.
  • Easy Installation: The hotend is designed to be a drop-in replacement for the stock hotend, meaning you can upgrade without any hassle of adjusting mounts or part cooling systems.
  • Material Versatility: The specialized coating not only protects against abrasion but also prevents plastic build-up, allowing you to work with a wide range of filaments, from standard to fiber-filled composites, without concerns about clogging or excessive wear.

Technical specifications:

  • Filament Diameter: 1.75 mm
  • Compatibility: Bambu Lab X1, X1 Carbon, X1E, P1S and P1P printers

*Please note this product is the metal only version. we have the fully assembled version here.

What's included:

  • 1 Bambu Lab High Flow ObXidian Metal Only HotEnd 0.40 mm or 0.60mm
  • 1 Thermal Grease
  • 1 Bambu Lab Sock
  • 1 Bambu Lab Heater Retaining Spring
  • 2 Bambu Lab Bolts

Please note that users are expected to reuse their existing temperature sensor and heater cartridge from their current setup, as the hotend is designed to be compatible with these components without the need for new ones. Always check the specific product listing for the exact contents of the kit to ensure you have everything required for installation.

FAQs for E3D High Flow Obxidian Hotend for Bambu

What's the maximum printing temperature?

  • 300 °C 

Is it possible to perform a cold pull with the E3D ObX HF Bambu HotEnd?

  • Absolutely, cold pulls are possible with the ObXidian-coated hotend. While the unique internal structure may make it slightly more challenging than standard nozzles, it's designed to handle the procedure effectively.

Are there any restrictions on the types of materials I can use with this HotEnd?

  • This hotend is versatile and can handle all filaments compatible with E3D's Revo and V6 ObXidian nozzles, including fiber-filled, glow-in-the-dark, and glitter-infused filaments. While it can print metal and ceramic-filled filaments for short durations, these may cause wear over extended use.

Do I need to perform a PID tune after installing the E3D ObX HF Bambu HotEnd?

  • No PID tuning is necessary when upgrading to this hotend, making the transition smooth and straightforward.

Can I use E3D Revo Nozzles with this hotend?

  • The E3D ObX HF Bambu HotEnd is designed to match the stock Bambu nozzles' form factor and is not compatible with E3D Revo nozzles. For those interested in Revo compatibility, the Revo Panda by Biqu is a suitable alternative hotend.

Questions View All Responses

What is the percentage of glass fiber in the nylon?

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The data sheet says the coefficient of thermal expansion is “ 0,1 10⁻⁴ / K”. If I assume the European convention for comma rather than decimal point I would read this as 0.1 x 10⁻⁴. Normally CTE is expressed in units of 10⁻⁶ meters/meter. Is the CTE of this material really half that of aluminum and 1/10 of that of most nylons, 10 x 10⁻⁶? As a liquid, it would have the CTE of regular nylon but as it cools, the glass puts the nylon into severe strain, probably why it is difficult to print. Clearly a bed temperature and heated environment will be critical, and cooling should be gradual and uniform. But really the amazing fact is that this CTE is less than 1/2 that of Aluminum, 23.6x10⁻⁶ and nearly that of Titanium, 9.7x10⁻⁶! The plot of CTE over temperature is a necessary component of the spec sheet. Does water absorption cause the printed parts to crack? Thanks!

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Using a stock Ender 3 Pro. What additional upgrades would be necessary to maximize print quality for NylonG?

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how well can the white nylonG transmit light? As in, Will it allow me to illuminate the print with a light source on the inside? trying to avoid clear PETG and need a stiffer polymer, so despite the vulnerability to UV light, uncoated, this material was suggested to me

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Does this filament need an enclosure to print properly?

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The technical data sheet states a "linear mould shrinkage" of 0.3. 1) Does this mean 0.3%? 2) Does the Matter Control slicer software scale up my model by 0.3% in order to accommodate the shrinkage in the final print, or is this something I should account for manually? 3) Is there a recommended cooling / curing process for the NylonG material so that I know that after a certain amount of time, shrinkage is largely over?

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Can you please explain what are the best practices to prevent white NylonG from getting yellowish after print?

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does anyone know what the best support spacing is for top and bottom for z axis only?

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Is there an approved annealing process for this filament? No matter how much magigoo i use chamber temp, i get minor warping (parts i'm printing take 24 hrs +). I would like to relieve the internal stresses to hopefully straighten my parts out.

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Is this a pa6, 66, 12 or something different?

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The data sheet says the tensile strength is 95 MPa using ISO 527. Other manufacturers publish 3 strength values: xy, yz, xz. as a 3D printed structure is non-isotropic. (Meaning the material strength properties are different in each direction). The weakest direction, I suppose, is the direction that tests layer adhesion. Can you give me a better idea of how the material was tested? Were printed test samples used or molded samples, etc...

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Can a Ender 3 with Micro Swiss hotend and extruder print Nylon G with stock thermistor and heat canister?

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We print straight out of our let it start dehydrating for about an hour or two at 75 c max setting I just set the time for 12 hours and after an hour or two we start our printers and we feed directly into our enclosed printers on garolite with magigoo pa and hardened nozzle all metal hotend and just let it print

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First print we did was perfect at 260c bed at 75c. I’m using a carbon fiber print bed and magigoo PA adhesive. I am using an extremely modified Ender6 with a slice engineering mosquito magnum with a Bondtech DDX extruder. Seems to me the extruder is as important as any other settings as your Esteps must be perfect. My only dislike is the orange is not as bright as it shows in samples. Amazing filament.

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How much does the spool weigh for .5kg/1.75 ?

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For everyone talking this product down…Try HARDER!!!! It’s by far my favorite material and the finish is insane ONCE you figure it out lol..you will see a nice glitter finish and 0 layer lines…I went through rolls with of this stuff until I got it…TRY HARDER…I promise it’ll be worth it in the end…I print on a modded ender 3 with or w/o an enclosure sometimes, I’ve successfully printed “big” entire build volume models …trust me I was pissed AF for a long time until I figured it out lol…

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You appear to no longer carry Dupont Zytel. How does this compare, especially with settings?

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This filament have the same warping problem like Nylon X ??

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I am trying to print apart using black NylonG. I have made 3 attempts so far and each time The part warps and one of the corners comes loose from the bed. With each attempt I make it further into the print but end up with the same result. I’m using a CR10s pro with no part cooling fan with printer in an enclosure and an internal temp of 35c inside enclosure. First attempt: Glass bed, @ 60c, nozzle 260c, NANO polymer adhesive from VisionMiner, printed with a brim and used recommended feeds recommended from MatterHackers. Second try: same as before but 80c on bed Third try: 90c bed temp, 25% feed rate on first layer, 50% second then 100% for remainder. I have used about 375g of material thus far. I am using 100% infill for this part which I’m share doesn’t help. Any recommendations?

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I have never printed with nylon so, I am learning about it. Why do you need to dry it? Is it because it has a lot of moisture in it from the factory or do you have to do this every time?

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Can the glass fibers fall out during printing or when you touch it like with Colorfabb XT-CF20, I'm really scared of breathing in or getting glass fiber splinters with this. The only hazard i see is a burn hazard on the safety data sheet.

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Went through almost 2 spoils of nylon G now . I have a flashforge creator pro upgraded with all metal hot end and it still isn’t hot enough for good later adhesion . I printed at 40mm/s at 280c and had a decent print but layer adhesion just wasn’t there completely . At least for my Glock frame that is, it seems like you should really be printing this material at 280 plus to get the most out of this material , I even had it sit in the oven for 24 hours at 180c . It is somewhat strong but my PLA plus blows it out of the water as far as strength goes. Do you think I should print with an ender 3 to get better later adhesion since those can go to 300c ?

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Is the 3kg weight the amount of material on the spool? What's the length?

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Can this be printed safely in a standard office with standard ventilation?

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I bought the printdry filament drying system, what would be the best temp to dry this at and for how long?

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