Loctite3D LOCTITE 3D IND147 Resin - Black - 1kg

LOCTITE 3D IND147 is a high-temperature resistant resin ideal for tooling, molding, and prototyping applications. It can withstand temperatures up to 230°C, offers high stiffness, and delivers excellent surface finish. With its impressive heat deflection temperature, toughness, and good dimensional stability, it is suitable for industries such as industrial, consumer goods, and automotive that require high-temperature resistance and dimensional stability.

  • Designed for use on all open-source SLA and DLP 3D Printers in the range of 385-420nm.
  • Withstands temperatures up to 230C
  • Combines toughness with dimensional stability
  • Delivers excellent surface finish
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Product No. M-LJ0-C385

LOCTITE 3D IND147 

High temperature resistant resin for tooling & molding

LOCTITE 3D IND147, a high-temperature resistant resin tailored for tooling and molding applications. This robust resin can withstand temperatures of up to 230°C while maintaining high stiffness, making it an ideal choice for various industrial needs. IND147 offers an impressive heat deflection temperature (HDT) of over 230°C, ensuring reliable performance under high-temperature conditions. With its combination of toughness, good dimensional stability, and excellent surface finish, it caters to tooling at high temperatures and low pressures, prototyping high-temperature parts, and customized mold creation. LOCTITE 3D IND147 is a versatile solution for industries such as industrial, consumer goods, and automotive, where high-temperature resistance and dimensional stability are paramount.

Here are the top features of LOCTITE 3D IND147:
  • High Heat Deflection Temperature (HDT): IND147 boasts an impressive HDT of over 230°C, ensuring reliable performance under high-temperature conditions.
  • Toughness with Dimensional Stability: This resin combines toughness with good dimensional stability, essential for tooling and molding applications
  • Excellent Surface Finish: IND147 delivers a good surface finish, enhancing the quality and appearance of printed objects.
  • Versatile Application: Ideal for tooling at high temperatures and low pressures, prototyping high-temperature parts, and creating customized molds, LOCTITE 3D IND147 serves a range of industries, including industrial, consumer goods, and automotive.

Technical Specifications:

  • Tensile Stress at Break (MPa): 67
  • Young's Modulus (MPa): 3190
  • Elongation at Break (%): 2
  • HDT at 0.455 (MPa): 291

*Values shown are linked to LOCTITE IND147 Black as reference, please refer to the specific mechanical properties for each of the colors shown in this document

TDS

Workflow:

Validated workflows need to be followed to achieve properties as provided in the TDS. Examples of validated workflow steps are listed below. Users should defer to the most current workflow information for the best results which can be found here

Printer Settings:

LOCTITE 3D IND147 BK is formulated to print optimally on industrial DLP printer. Read the safety data sheet carefully to get details about health and safety instructions. Recommended print parameters:

  • Shake resin bottle well before usage
  • Temperature: 20°C to 35°C
  • Intensity: 2 mW/cm² to 12 mW/cm²

Printer Compatibility:

LOCTITE Resins are designed for use on all open-source SLA and DLP 3D Printers in the range of 385-420nm.

LOCTITE 3D IND147 has been validated on the following 3D printers:

  • ETEC Xtreme 8K
  • ETEC E1
  • Stratasys Origin One
  • RapidShape i30+
  • RapidShape i50+
  • RapidShape i100+
  • Carbon M2
  • Fortify Flux One
  • Genera G2
  • Prusa SL1S Speed
  • Asiga MAX UV
  • Rayshape3D - Shape1+

Questions View All Responses

Do you make a 8" x 10" for MakerGear M3?

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I installed it per the instructions, eluding setting the build height to >0.25 mm, and on the first ABS print I got such excessive adhesion that when I removed the part the top film tore. The bead temp was 100C. What should I have done differ try?

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Do you have a solution for the MakerBot replicator 5th gen

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Do it will works for ESD filament and what is the print bed temp set up also the total temp set up

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Per your description, 9x10 is the wrong size for the Robo 3D Printer. It needs to be a 10x10.

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FlashForge Creator PRO and Dreamer - will this work with them?

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Can i use the same size in my Ultimaker 2 Extended +

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I currently have a glass build plate on top of an aluminum heated bed (home made). The glass is held on by 'bull dog' clips. I've placed small square pieces of copper foil tape in the corners of the glass for the use of an inductive probe. Does the TAK build plate have enough metal in it to trigger an inductive probe, and how would I mount the system onto my bed?

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Could you please describe what's actually included, like a list of parts?

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After installing, I did manual leveling on my Ultimaker 3, but it fails every time the active leveling starts. Do you know of a fix for this?

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Do you offer educator discounts?

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How does this handle the heated nozzles when leveling an Ultimaker 3?

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Well Hello there @Answer Grape! The flex plate is not really reversible and I would recommend getting another "Extra Plate" to coat in wither PVA glue on the top surface or a thin Garolite plate to use. I have a thin Garolite plate I use on my PulseXE here in the office. Drop us an email at Support@matterhackers.com for more info!

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Jello! I'm REALLY CONFLICTED here about the nylon thing. Were it NOT for that reportedly NOT WORKING with this, I'd be ALL OVER this slick trick! So I'm trying to find a decent work-around to try on the flip side of the flex plate??? Can't help but wonder, though: Taulman says several of their nylons work on glue-coated BuildTak? Sensei, what is truth???

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I already have the pulse XE, how will this impact the Garolite surface prepped for nylonx?

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Are the flex plates supposed to be trimmed to fit?

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What size fits an Ultimaker 2+? The available sizes are either too small or too large for the Ultimaker 2+'s 223mm x 223m build surface. Are the flex plates supposed to be trimmed to fit?

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I’m considering upgrading my Original Prusa i3 MK2S with the FlexPlate System. Will it work with the Prusa’s autoleveling and calibration feature? Do I need to take anything into account when putting the magnetic base on top of the PEI sheet?

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In my question above, I meant to say "on top of the MK42 without removing its PEI sheet?"

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I have a Prusa MK42 build plate. Which size BuildTak flex system will fit? The 9" x 10"? Can I put the Magnetic base on top of the MK42 with remove its PEI sheet? Thanks.

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My bed is 270x220. If I used the 9x10 the base would stick out about 4mm on either side. Would this be a problem with its operation? Would I have to go for a smaller version? There's also the screws for the bed, that are about 10mm from the short edge and 35mm from the long edge. Would the base cover these screws?

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Will this withstand auto leveling (Ultimaker 3) where the print head touches the platform?

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Is the actual build surface intended to be permanent or is it more of a consumable that is replaced on a regular basis and, if so, how many prints can you generally get out of one sheet?

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(1) Which size is recommended for the Lulzbot TAZ6 (12"x12" or 9"x10")? (2) Is the removable layer easy to clean? (3) How frequently should I replace the removable film? (4) Is the magnetic base difficult to remove?

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Do you have a version that is compatible with the MakerGear M3ID that you sell?

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What size should be chosen for Ultimaker 3 and Robo R2?

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My prints are lifting off of the build plate with the BuildTak. I have an Ultimaker 2+. I have re-leveled it. It starts out okay, but then the print lifts off. Suggestions? I've added glue from a glue stick.

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What is the maximum temperature the BuildTak System can withstand?

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Are you able to order a different size? I have an old Makerbot Clone with the 6x9 build plate. I can see it on BuildTek's website, but you dont have that size here.

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Has anyone installed one of these on a BCN3D Sigma?

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I am thinking about using this with a Taz 6. Would this work with Matterhackers Pro PETG? Also, would you have to apply gluestick to the buildtak flexplate or would it suffice without it?

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anyone try this with a prusa i3 mk2?

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I see all kinds of descriptions on how it releases the print, but what about adhesion, how well does this system work with all the different filaments?

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