Mayku Mayku FormBox Desktop Vacuum Former
The Mayku FormBox Vacuum Former is an easy-to-use tool that allows you to quickly create shapes and molds out of thin plastic and fill them with concrete, plaster, resin, soap, ice, or chocolate. With this tool, you can produce as many multi-use molds and lasting objects as you want, giving you complete control over your design.
- Vacuum forms shapes
- Create multiple molds
- Use different materials
List Price: | $599.00 |
---|---|
Price: | $599.00 |
Price: | $... |
Availability: | In Stock |
Using the Mayku FormBox Vacuum Former is as easy as 1, 2, 3!
With the FormBox, you can start mass-producing as many awesome designs as you want.
First, you'll need a shape. You can find a shape you like, sculpt a form, or 3D print the perfect shape.
Form shapes with ease on the Mayku Formbox Vacuum Former
Next, you'll vacuum form a sheet of thin plastic (PETG or polystyrene) over that shape using the FormBox, leaving you with a plastic mold of the shape; a three-dimensional profile that can be used in countless ways. The clear PETG sheets are great for multi-use molds for a variety of materials. Polystyrene sheets help create lasting objects that can enhance your designs.
Now you're ready to start using your mold!
Check out the Mayku Form Sheets, Cast Sheets, Resin Sheets, Flex Sheets
Choosing between what sheets to use for your project
Form Sheets | 0.5MM / 30 Pack - Polystyrene opaque sheets, versatile, great for packaging, prototyping, and creative projects.
Cast Sheets | 0.5MM / 30 Pack - PETG transparent food-safe, great for making food molds
Flex Sheets | 1.0MM / 15 Pack - Flexible transparent material, perfect for molds with undercuts or getting finer details
Resin Sheets | 1.5MM / 20 Pack - Translucent, milky coloured sheets, designed for making custom molds for casting resin (heat shield is essential accessory when working with resin sheets on the FormBox)
Fill your final Vacuum formed sheet with anything from concrete to chocolate!
Fill your newly created design with concrete, plaster, resin, soap, ice or chocolate to create as many of that shape as you want! Once you have a physical object, you can change the design without sending anything to a factory or a third party for revisions - all the power of creating is in your hands.
Save Time & Money On Outsourcing and Turn-Around
So whether you're a small business owner, an Etsy shop creator, or just want a versatile tool for your new ideas, the Mayku FormBox can help make your designs a reality without having to outsource vacuum forming to another company. Save time and money with the FormBox.
A range of materials to cast with:
• Concrete
• Silicone
• Chocolate
• Jello
• Resin
• Ice
• Foam
• Jesmonite
• Plaster
Case Studies with the Mayku FormBox
Here are some really awesome things people have been making with their Mayku FormBox, click to download articles below.
Rapid prototyping with the Mayku Formbox
Cutting packaging prototype times with the Formbox and 3D Printing
Developing prototypes and short runs of products with 3D printing and formboxed molds
Making a bespoke product line with the FormBox
What's in the box?
The Makyu FormBox comes with the following:
- Makyu FormBox Desktop Vacuum Former
- 20 Transparent PET Cast Sheets
- 20 Opaque White Polystyrene Form Sheets
- 3 Starter Projects
- 1kg of casting material
- Universal vacuum adapter
- Mayku 2 year extended warranty
Designed to be used with Any vacuum cleaner under 2000 watts
The Mayku team designed a adapter that enables the Mayku FormBox to be used with any vacuum cleaner under 2000 watts. Here’s a handy tip - even if your vacuum adaptor is on an angle and doesn’t look like it should fit, it will! Just push it in so it’s nice and snug.
Mayku Formbox Specifications
- Height: 315mm (12.4 inches)
- Length (with handles): 466mm (18.3 inches)
- Width: 274mm (10.8 inches)
- Forming bed: 200 x 200mm (7.9 x 7.9 inches)
- Draw depth: 130mm (5.1 inches)
- Weight: 13kg (28.7lbs)
- Recommended Operating Temperature: 15-30oC; Humidity: 30-50% RH
Recommended Storage Temperature: 10-35oC; Humidity: 20-90% RH - The temperature range of the built-in ceramic heater is 160oC - 340oC.
Questions
The data sheet says the coefficient of thermal expansion is “ 0,1 10⁻⁴ / K”. If I assume the European convention for comma rather than decimal point I would read this as 0.1 x 10⁻⁴. Normally CTE is expressed in units of 10⁻⁶ meters/meter. Is the CTE of this material really half that of aluminum and 1/10 of that of most nylons, 10 x 10⁻⁶? As a liquid, it would have the CTE of regular nylon but as it cools, the glass puts the nylon into severe strain, probably why it is difficult to print. Clearly a bed temperature and heated environment will be critical, and cooling should be gradual and uniform. But really the amazing fact is that this CTE is less than 1/2 that of Aluminum, 23.6x10⁻⁶ and nearly that of Titanium, 9.7x10⁻⁶! The plot of CTE over temperature is a necessary component of the spec sheet. Does water absorption cause the printed parts to crack? Thanks!
Using a stock Ender 3 Pro. What additional upgrades would be necessary to maximize print quality for NylonG?
how well can the white nylonG transmit light? As in, Will it allow me to illuminate the print with a light source on the inside? trying to avoid clear PETG and need a stiffer polymer, so despite the vulnerability to UV light, uncoated, this material was suggested to me
Does this filament need an enclosure to print properly?
The technical data sheet states a "linear mould shrinkage" of 0.3. 1) Does this mean 0.3%? 2) Does the Matter Control slicer software scale up my model by 0.3% in order to accommodate the shrinkage in the final print, or is this something I should account for manually? 3) Is there a recommended cooling / curing process for the NylonG material so that I know that after a certain amount of time, shrinkage is largely over?
Can you please explain what are the best practices to prevent white NylonG from getting yellowish after print?
does anyone know what the best support spacing is for top and bottom for z axis only?
Is there an approved annealing process for this filament? No matter how much magigoo i use chamber temp, i get minor warping (parts i'm printing take 24 hrs +). I would like to relieve the internal stresses to hopefully straighten my parts out.
Is this a pa6, 66, 12 or something different?
The data sheet says the tensile strength is 95 MPa using ISO 527. Other manufacturers publish 3 strength values: xy, yz, xz. as a 3D printed structure is non-isotropic. (Meaning the material strength properties are different in each direction). The weakest direction, I suppose, is the direction that tests layer adhesion. Can you give me a better idea of how the material was tested? Were printed test samples used or molded samples, etc...
Can a Ender 3 with Micro Swiss hotend and extruder print Nylon G with stock thermistor and heat canister?
We print straight out of our let it start dehydrating for about an hour or two at 75 c max setting I just set the time for 12 hours and after an hour or two we start our printers and we feed directly into our enclosed printers on garolite with magigoo pa and hardened nozzle all metal hotend and just let it print
First print we did was perfect at 260c bed at 75c. I’m using a carbon fiber print bed and magigoo PA adhesive. I am using an extremely modified Ender6 with a slice engineering mosquito magnum with a Bondtech DDX extruder. Seems to me the extruder is as important as any other settings as your Esteps must be perfect. My only dislike is the orange is not as bright as it shows in samples. Amazing filament.
How much does the spool weigh for .5kg/1.75 ?
For everyone talking this product down…Try HARDER!!!! It’s by far my favorite material and the finish is insane ONCE you figure it out lol..you will see a nice glitter finish and 0 layer lines…I went through rolls with of this stuff until I got it…TRY HARDER…I promise it’ll be worth it in the end…I print on a modded ender 3 with or w/o an enclosure sometimes, I’ve successfully printed “big” entire build volume models …trust me I was pissed AF for a long time until I figured it out lol…
You appear to no longer carry Dupont Zytel. How does this compare, especially with settings?
This filament have the same warping problem like Nylon X ??
I am trying to print apart using black NylonG. I have made 3 attempts so far and each time The part warps and one of the corners comes loose from the bed. With each attempt I make it further into the print but end up with the same result. I’m using a CR10s pro with no part cooling fan with printer in an enclosure and an internal temp of 35c inside enclosure. First attempt: Glass bed, @ 60c, nozzle 260c, NANO polymer adhesive from VisionMiner, printed with a brim and used recommended feeds recommended from MatterHackers. Second try: same as before but 80c on bed Third try: 90c bed temp, 25% feed rate on first layer, 50% second then 100% for remainder. I have used about 375g of material thus far. I am using 100% infill for this part which I’m share doesn’t help. Any recommendations?
I have never printed with nylon so, I am learning about it. Why do you need to dry it? Is it because it has a lot of moisture in it from the factory or do you have to do this every time?
Can the glass fibers fall out during printing or when you touch it like with Colorfabb XT-CF20, I'm really scared of breathing in or getting glass fiber splinters with this. The only hazard i see is a burn hazard on the safety data sheet.
Went through almost 2 spoils of nylon G now . I have a flashforge creator pro upgraded with all metal hot end and it still isn’t hot enough for good later adhesion . I printed at 40mm/s at 280c and had a decent print but layer adhesion just wasn’t there completely . At least for my Glock frame that is, it seems like you should really be printing this material at 280 plus to get the most out of this material , I even had it sit in the oven for 24 hours at 180c . It is somewhat strong but my PLA plus blows it out of the water as far as strength goes. Do you think I should print with an ender 3 to get better later adhesion since those can go to 300c ?
Is the 3kg weight the amount of material on the spool? What's the length?
Can this be printed safely in a standard office with standard ventilation?
I bought the printdry filament drying system, what would be the best temp to dry this at and for how long?
What is the percentage of glass fiber in the nylon?
I’d like to know this as well. I’ve purchased a reel, and if I had to guess based on other glass reinforced filaments I’ve tried, this stuff seems like around 10-15% at most. The filament is just too flexible for it to contain any more than that. In comparison, polymaker has a PA6 gf filament with 25% fiber content and it will barely bend at all without snapping.