Slice Engineering Slice Engineering Mosquito Hotend 24V Kit
The Mosquito Hotend, developed by the geniuses at Slice Engineering, is a radical new take on 3D printer hotend form. Now with the improved keyhole design, the Mosquito Hotend is even hotter (and cooler) than ever.
Ready to use the Mosquito Hotend, but are not sure what you need? This bundle has everything required to get started with this incredible hotend design. It includes the Mosquito Hotend, hotend cooling fan, and heater cartridge, all for the 24V configuration.
| List Price: | $170.00 |
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| Price: | $170.00 |
| Price: | $... |
| Availability: | Only 1 left in stock. |
WHAT THIS KIT INCLUDES:
- Mosquito Hotend (BMG-M Compatible)
- Slice Engineering Hotend Cooling Fan 24v
- Mosquito Hotend Heater Cartridge, 24v 50W
YOU'RE HOT THEN YOU'RE COLD
The core to the Mosquito Hotend is in the separated module design. The frame at the cold end, which feeds the filament down, is separated entirely from the heater block by four metal support rods. This creates a spacious air gap between the two modules, where a minimal, copper heatsink guides the filament down into the heater block, and a small, mounted fan keeps the right amount of air flowing through the whole setup.
By combining each of these design elements, the heat creep effect has been effectively eliminated. The heat will stay contained just where it needs to be for clean, efficient printing-- all in an elegant and compact form.
EASY COME, EASY GO
An additional, exciting benefit of the four-rod design is that the heater block is completely stationary, so inserting and removing your nozzle doesn't move the heater block! With no need to hold the heater block in place, removing and installing your nozzle just became much faster and easier!
FAN FANDOM
The Mosquito Hotend features a small fan that perfectly mounts on the side of the Mosquito Hotend frame, and blows just the right amount of air across the copper heatsink, and away from the print area. This helps ensure the proper temperature required for your 3D printing job is maintained.
SMALLER HOTEND, MORE BUILD VOLUME
All of these incredible design elements of the Mosquito Hotend are achieved in less space than traditional hotends, so by installing a Mosquito Hotend, you actually open up more vertical build volume on your printer! The only downside to this amazing new tool is that you don't have it--yet!
MOUNTING SOLUTIONS FOR THE MOSQUITO HOTEND
Here are some STL's you can download and print in order to mount your new Mosquito Hotend to your favorite 3D printer:
| Adapter for E3D V6 |
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| Adapter for Prusa MK2S |
| Adapter for Prusa MK3 |
| Groovemount Adapter |
| Groovemount Adapter for Titan Aero |
| Groovemount Adapter for Bondtech QR |
| Railcore II Adapter |
Questions
The data sheet says the coefficient of thermal expansion is “ 0,1 10⁻⁴ / K”. If I assume the European convention for comma rather than decimal point I would read this as 0.1 x 10⁻⁴. Normally CTE is expressed in units of 10⁻⁶ meters/meter. Is the CTE of this material really half that of aluminum and 1/10 of that of most nylons, 10 x 10⁻⁶? As a liquid, it would have the CTE of regular nylon but as it cools, the glass puts the nylon into severe strain, probably why it is difficult to print. Clearly a bed temperature and heated environment will be critical, and cooling should be gradual and uniform. But really the amazing fact is that this CTE is less than 1/2 that of Aluminum, 23.6x10⁻⁶ and nearly that of Titanium, 9.7x10⁻⁶! The plot of CTE over temperature is a necessary component of the spec sheet. Does water absorption cause the printed parts to crack? Thanks!
Using a stock Ender 3 Pro. What additional upgrades would be necessary to maximize print quality for NylonG?
how well can the white nylonG transmit light? As in, Will it allow me to illuminate the print with a light source on the inside? trying to avoid clear PETG and need a stiffer polymer, so despite the vulnerability to UV light, uncoated, this material was suggested to me
Does this filament need an enclosure to print properly?
The technical data sheet states a "linear mould shrinkage" of 0.3. 1) Does this mean 0.3%? 2) Does the Matter Control slicer software scale up my model by 0.3% in order to accommodate the shrinkage in the final print, or is this something I should account for manually? 3) Is there a recommended cooling / curing process for the NylonG material so that I know that after a certain amount of time, shrinkage is largely over?
Can you please explain what are the best practices to prevent white NylonG from getting yellowish after print?
I've bought a roll of this filament and so far every attempt to print a file with it has failed to adhesive to the build plate. I've tried garolite and retraction speed and distance whats the settings on that for ender3 v3 ke
does anyone know what the best support spacing is for top and bottom for z axis only?
Is there an approved annealing process for this filament? No matter how much magigoo i use chamber temp, i get minor warping (parts i'm printing take 24 hrs +). I would like to relieve the internal stresses to hopefully straighten my parts out.
Is this a pa6, 66, 12 or something different?
The data sheet says the tensile strength is 95 MPa using ISO 527. Other manufacturers publish 3 strength values: xy, yz, xz. as a 3D printed structure is non-isotropic. (Meaning the material strength properties are different in each direction). The weakest direction, I suppose, is the direction that tests layer adhesion. Can you give me a better idea of how the material was tested? Were printed test samples used or molded samples, etc...
Can a Ender 3 with Micro Swiss hotend and extruder print Nylon G with stock thermistor and heat canister?
We print straight out of our let it start dehydrating for about an hour or two at 75 c max setting I just set the time for 12 hours and after an hour or two we start our printers and we feed directly into our enclosed printers on garolite with magigoo pa and hardened nozzle all metal hotend and just let it print
First print we did was perfect at 260c bed at 75c. I’m using a carbon fiber print bed and magigoo PA adhesive. I am using an extremely modified Ender6 with a slice engineering mosquito magnum with a Bondtech DDX extruder. Seems to me the extruder is as important as any other settings as your Esteps must be perfect. My only dislike is the orange is not as bright as it shows in samples. Amazing filament.
How much does the spool weigh for .5kg/1.75 ?
For everyone talking this product down…Try HARDER!!!! It’s by far my favorite material and the finish is insane ONCE you figure it out lol..you will see a nice glitter finish and 0 layer lines…I went through rolls with of this stuff until I got it…TRY HARDER…I promise it’ll be worth it in the end…I print on a modded ender 3 with or w/o an enclosure sometimes, I’ve successfully printed “big” entire build volume models …trust me I was pissed AF for a long time until I figured it out lol…
You appear to no longer carry Dupont Zytel. How does this compare, especially with settings?
This filament have the same warping problem like Nylon X ??
I am trying to print apart using black NylonG. I have made 3 attempts so far and each time The part warps and one of the corners comes loose from the bed. With each attempt I make it further into the print but end up with the same result. I’m using a CR10s pro with no part cooling fan with printer in an enclosure and an internal temp of 35c inside enclosure. First attempt: Glass bed, @ 60c, nozzle 260c, NANO polymer adhesive from VisionMiner, printed with a brim and used recommended feeds recommended from MatterHackers. Second try: same as before but 80c on bed Third try: 90c bed temp, 25% feed rate on first layer, 50% second then 100% for remainder. I have used about 375g of material thus far. I am using 100% infill for this part which I’m share doesn’t help. Any recommendations?
I have never printed with nylon so, I am learning about it. Why do you need to dry it? Is it because it has a lot of moisture in it from the factory or do you have to do this every time?
Can the glass fibers fall out during printing or when you touch it like with Colorfabb XT-CF20, I'm really scared of breathing in or getting glass fiber splinters with this. The only hazard i see is a burn hazard on the safety data sheet.
Went through almost 2 spoils of nylon G now . I have a flashforge creator pro upgraded with all metal hot end and it still isn’t hot enough for good later adhesion . I printed at 40mm/s at 280c and had a decent print but layer adhesion just wasn’t there completely . At least for my Glock frame that is, it seems like you should really be printing this material at 280 plus to get the most out of this material , I even had it sit in the oven for 24 hours at 180c . It is somewhat strong but my PLA plus blows it out of the water as far as strength goes. Do you think I should print with an ender 3 to get better later adhesion since those can go to 300c ?
Is the 3kg weight the amount of material on the spool? What's the length?
Can this be printed safely in a standard office with standard ventilation?
I bought the printdry filament drying system, what would be the best temp to dry this at and for how long?
What is the percentage of glass fiber in the nylon?
I’d like to know this as well. I’ve purchased a reel, and if I had to guess based on other glass reinforced filaments I’ve tried, this stuff seems like around 10-15% at most. The filament is just too flexible for it to contain any more than that. In comparison, polymaker has a PA6 gf filament with 25% fiber content and it will barely bend at all without snapping.