Bambu Lab Micro Swiss Direct Drive Extruder for Creality

Yes but not without problems. I just installed the kit mentioned on my V2. The homing limits need to be modded along with the fan cover. It took me two days to design and print end stops for the x-y axis limits. Had to drill a small hole in the bracket for mounting the fan cover after removing the snap fittings on the cover. This item shouldn't be promoted as a replacement fit for the Ender 3V2. "It's not."

As Roby previously replied, this is not a drop-in replacement for the Ender 3 v2. The original E3V2 fan cover absolutely will not fit. Their instructions should say "Print a fan cover before you install". I got it all together and then found this out. I was able to temporarily zip tie the original fan cover on and print a new cover. Axis limit switches were a huge pain in the A$$.

It was pretty much plug and play for my V2 so don't know what other people have as problems. I moved the Z axis switch a little and since the nozzle isn't in the same spot I have to change the code a bit. If I'm not mistaken there are 2 brackets for the limit switches and I ended up not using them. I did have to print a Satsana fan ductwork though which I didn't find out till I started the swap. Grrr.. I just taped things to work till I got it printed and it's working fine now. Just tuning it in, steps, flow. etc. Worth the $$.

Thanks, If I upgrade to the mosquito will this still work?

@Shane We have not attempted that modification, so we do not know if the Mosquito will fit this configuration.

This is designed to work with all the stock fans and such. Nothing fancy here. You will likely need to design your own aftermarket cooling mounts and ABL mounts. Ive had to modify the PETSFANG system on my CR-10S to fit with this new extruder. You can also do a search on the 3D model sites to see if someone else has already designed one.

There is a remix of the Satsana ductwork with BL touch mounting added on thingiverse. Just search for satsana.

No.

Is there a kit for 5 series???

Some more information as to why it won't work on an Ender 5 series would be helpful. From what I understand the Ender 5 has the same hot end and extruder as the Ender 3. What part of this setup doesn't work for the Ender 5? What modifications would it take to make it work with an Ender 5?

The way the belt is arranged between the 3 vs 5 is different. I accidentally bought a 5 for my 3 V2 and had to use the original mounting plate in addition to the 5 mounting plate and the nozzle now overhangs the build plate by a cm.

https://www.amazon.com/Micro-Swiss-Direct-Extruder-Creality/dp/B08PKR9PPQ/ref=asc_df_B08PKR9PPQ?tag=bingshoppinga-20&linkCode;=df0&hvadid;=79852147386576&hvnetw;=o&hvqmt;=e&hvbmt;=be&hvdev;=c&hvlocint;=&hvlocphy;=&hvtargid;=pla-4583451677237090&psc;=1

Both kits will still use your current bowden tube.

The one WITH direct drive moves your extruder to just above the hot end. You will have much more precision after adjusting your E-steps and retraction settings accordingly. The direct drive kit will pull the filament through your bowden tube instead of pushing it through. This does away with the flex in the tube that causes a slight "spring under compression" effect that requires your retraction settings to be higher.

If you purchase just the hot end it will still use your bowden tube but it will not insert as close to the heater block. The stock hot end will melt the tip of the bowden tube inside the heater block at sustained temps above 240.

Short answer is yes. Long answer, there is a very tiny piece of PTFE tubing to guide the filament into the extruder, but the long "normal" bowden tubing will be superfluous.

Yes, I have had mine on now for 1 month and it works great! I used my extruder motor to the frame and used the same filament sensor through the standard stock bracket. I also added a EZABL Sensor with ABS mount to make it AWESOME!

How?... please provide some info & pics.

Same question?!
Anyone?!

If you cannot find a grub screw, it must be press fit. I have an E3 Pro and it does have it.

Heat up the brass gear a little, Not much! Then place servo in a vice carefully it doesn't take much. Use a pry bar and it it should pop off. This is press fit and is made of brass it will have a few small dings after but still works if you have to ever switch back.

I wasn't able to pry it off so I used a dremel and cut it off. Worked out fine for me

There is a gear puller stl on thingiverse for pulling the pressed on gears.

I had the same problem. I just ordered a new motor, because putting more than a little pressure on the axle to remove the gear would put way too much stress on the bearings inside the motor and possibly damage it, unless you have a device specifically made for such a task.

Amazon sells the motor you need for $16 US

You simply adjust the extruder gear transmission in the menus

You can get a stl from thingyverse for the extrusion setup, look on youtube its quite easy to check & Adjust.

I can't speak to the CR-10S Pro, but everything was included to bolt directly onto my CR-10S. Keep in mind that this is designed to work with the factory hotend cooling fan and part cooling fan. If you are using aftermarket cooling parts and mounts, you will likely need to re-design those to fit this new extruder assembly.

The stepper motor will not hit the top of the frame on a stock Ender 3.

We do not have this machine and are unable to verify compatibility. You will likely need to make software and hardware modifications.

@William No.

Why specifically not?

No!

Works just fine on mine

It...doesn't. On the original Micro Swiss extruder, the motor is mounted on the back of the extruder, with the axle pointing forwards, so that it can spin the same way (as the stock extruder on an Ender or CR-10 printer) to extrude filament.