AnkerMake AnkerMake M5 3D Printer

I’d like to know this as well. I’ve purchased a reel, and if I had to guess based on other glass reinforced filaments I’ve tried, this stuff seems like around 10-15% at most. The filament is just too flexible for it to contain any more than that. In comparison, polymaker has a PA6 gf filament with 25% fiber content and it will barely bend at all without snapping.

An all-metal hotend and wear-resistant nozzle (either hardened steel or Ruby) are absolutely mandatory prerequisites.

I agree with @Ryan.

You might also consider a Gaolite print surface as well.

an enclosure definitely, the swiss all metal hot end, and glass bed!

@Frequent Buyer These are all good recommendations.

I have been printing with NylonG for a few months now. A hardened nozzle, all-metal hotend, and a Garolite print surface are necessary. I've not used an enclosure, though it would probably help prevent warping. I've found it necessary to print with a brim to keep the part from pulling away from the bed when not using an enclosure.

I highly recommend the Print Dry Pro for drying the filament before printing as nylon is very hygroscopic.

After printing with NylonG for a few months, I can say that no, it's not NECESSARY if you print with a brim, but I'm sure it would help.

That’s most likely due to UV. Unfortunately nylon degrades with UV. The only way would be to use a UV-resistant sealant coating, which you can find in aerosol and paint applications. You should be able to find it in both matte and gloss.

PA12

Yes

If you weigh the filament when you first get it and subtract 500g you get the spool weight. I do this for all my filaments and write it on the label. The spools usually weigh about 200g.

It weighs 0.5kg…thars the total amount of filament you receive.

Honestly I hate to admit it but I’m inclined to agree, though I’m roughly halfway through my spool now and thankfully haven’t had to use more than that. The issue here is that the specs MH gives are so far from what works for me that it may as well be for a totally different filament. I print on an enclosed Ender 3 Pro with a garolite sheet on glass, using 280 on the nozzle and 90 on the bed with Magigoo PA. This combo FINALLY started giving me results and… well it’s annoying given the frustration to get here but holy cow this is an awesome material when it prints… just a touch more flex than CF which really helps the toughness, beautiful silky “sparkly” finish, damn near unbreakable… and it comes in colors other than black which is great for the maker and customer. MH settings are nowhere near what works for me, but yeah it’s pretty slick..

I’m an engineer we use the Nylon G and nylon X for firxtures in our machine shop CMM quality lab and testing fixtures We love this stuff it works amazing for functional prints you just have to know what filament you need for what parts or objects your printing otherwise just print PLA and leave the good Funtional Filaments to the engineers that know when to use them how to use them and how to print them

What retraction speed and distance do you slice it at?

It’s not really the same as zytel. This stuff is more of a compromise between adding strength and ease of printing. If you’re looking for something comparable to zytel in physical properties, Id recommend polymaker PA6 GF. It’s a similar polymer used as zytel does. It’s pretty expensive, but if you’re used to zytel then it’s no surprise.

Yes all nylons do.

If you are having issues with warping using nylon, I do not recommend this filament as it’s that much more difficult to print. You need an enclosure if you want any type of consistency across prints using it.

With glass, you want a bed temp north of 80c. I run mine between 95-110c, with a generous layer of magigoo

I was in same boat. Hit your bed with acetone then 90% EtOH. Make that brim wide. I think the 80c range is good for the bed and your 260c print should work. Let us know if you have any success. Frustrating material!

You need Garolite print bed attached to heavy steel gauge at 95C, Hotend 275C, No fan, 10mm/s first layer .24 1st layer, .3 there after. No brim, no glue needed.

Also how fast are you printing? The slower the better with this stuff, I usually average around 25mm/s. I’d check this and increase your bed temp. For my heated chamber, I use 80c

While we do take steps to prevent it from arriving at you with moisture. It is a good solid practice to always dry any hygroscopic material before first use. We have also seen Nylons become affected with moisture in as little as 4 hours.

Nylon will absorb moisture so fast that it becomes unusable in as little as 10 minutes.

@Hunterxu26 I have printed with this material and have not experienced any flaking or splintering of the material during or after printing.

No, it doesn’t have a particularly high glass fiber content so it’s not an issue at all. Just try not to breathe in the filings and dust after post processing obviously.

Nylon-G can be printed at a true 260 C. What's most likely happening with your flash forge is there's a difference between true temp and display temp. Your ender 3 should work great for this filament—just make sure you're using an all-metal hot end! Another tip is printing far slower, and maybe decrease the nozzle size, but nothing smaller than .4mm to prevent clogs. Hope this helps!

@Aaron wilder My first suggestion is to increase your bed temperature to at least 80C and if necessary 100C. Next, you may want to add pieces to enclose your printer or a full enclosure to keep all of the ambient heat and air movement stable. This should give you better results.

printing my glock frames with ender 3, fully enclosed with all hot metal end, glass bed. 85c for the bed and 260c for hot end... flawless and strong with no need to anneal part

@Aaron Wilder, what fixed it? interested to hear about it.

My modded ender 3 prints great at 30mm/s and at 260C with the 3DXTech nylons.

My Ender-3 Pro with Micro-Swiss extruder + all-metal hotend is printing NylonG beautifully at 258C, using an easy-to-machine Garolite LE (McMaster-Carr) build surface at 65C + a 0.4mm M2 steel nozzle. Before printing, I wipe the Garolite clean using isopropyl w/ a tissue, then wipe on a very thin layer of hair spray using a second tissue - otherwise the Nylon sticks a little too well to the Garolite. And of course I dry all nylons before printing. I am a real fan of NylonG!

You need to dry it before printing. Dry it for a day in a good dehydrator.

@Christian Chavez That is the weight of the material. The length is about 1, 247 meters.

@Guest Yes.

@PocketRat Set the temperature for 150F - 160F and let the material dry overnight or for at least six hours.