Formlabs Formlabs Flexible 80A Resin (1L) for Form 4

Formlabs Flexible 80A Resin is a translucent material designed for crafting durable, rubber-like prototypes that can bend and stretch, suitable for rapid in-house production. With 80A Shore hardness, it is ideal for making seals, grips, and cushioning. Compatible with a range of Formlabs printers and tanks, it features an ultimate tensile strength of 8.9 MPa and elongates up to 120% at break.

  • Mimics hard-rubber flexibility
  • Bendable parts return to shape slowly
  • Translucent for internal visibility, streamlines design
  • Cartridge compatible with Form 4 3D printers
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Product No. M-JM6-SCHQ

Flexible 80A Resin

REPLICATE HARD RUBBER

Discover the versatility of Formlabs Flexible 80A Resin, designed for crafting soft yet sturdy prototypes that endure bending and stretching. Its 80A Shore hardness ensures parts are flexible without sacrificing durability. Ideal for rapid in-house production of rubber-like parts, it's a transparent, cost-effective solution for seals, grips, and cushioning applications, streamlining development and enhancing design flexibility.

Key Features of the Formlabs Flexible 80A Resin:

  • Mimics hard-rubber or TPU flexibility
  • Bendable parts return to shape slowly
  • Withstands repeated bending, flexing, and compression
  • Rapidly produce in-house for less outsourcing
  • Translucent for clear visibility into internal structures
  • Applications include grips, gaskets, cushioning absorption, tendon anatomy, and more

Formlabs Flexible 80A Resin

Engineering
Application
SLA
Technology
Translucent
8.9 MPa
Ultimate Tensile Strength
23.1 MPa
Tensile Modulus
120%
Elongation at Break
COMPATIBILITY
Printer(s)*
Form 4 / 4B
Form 3L / 3BL
Form 3+ / 3B+
Form 3 / 3B
Form 2
Resin Tank(s) [RT]
Form 4 / 4B RT
Form 3L / 3BL RT V2
Form 3L / 3BL RT V1
Form 3 / 3B RT V2.1
Form 2 LT Tank
Build Platform(s) [BP]
Form 4 BP Flex
Form 4 BP
Form 3L BP
Form 3 Stainless Steel BP
Form 3 BP 2
Form 3 BP

*The resin is compatible with these 3D printers. Please ensure you're selecting the correct cartridge compatibility at purchase as the Form 4 uses a different cartridge system from previous models. The listing you are currently on is for the Form 4.

For the Form 3 series / Form 2 compatible cartridges, click here.

What are the Material Properties* of the Formlabs Flexible 80A Resin?

Shore Hardness 80A
Ultimate Tensile Strength 7.2 MPa
Stress at 50% Elongation 2.6 MPa
Stress at 100% Elongation 4.5 MPa
Elongation 1.35
Tear Strength 22 kN/m

* Material properties may vary based on part geometry, print orientation, print settings, and temperature. Data was obtained from parts printed on a Form 3 with 100 µm Flexible 80A settings, washed in a Form Wash for 10 minutes, and post-cured at 60°C for 10 minutes in a Form Cure.

Download the Formlabs Flexible 80A Technical Data Sheet
Download the Formlabs Flexible 80A Resin Safety Data Sheet


Formlabs Form Wash (Gen 2) Formlabs Form Cure
FORM WASH SETTINGS FORM CURE SETTINGS
Duration Duration
10 min + 10 min 10 min
   
  Temperature
   60°C
Notes Notes
Wash parts printed in Flexible 80A Resin
in two cycles, preferably using fresh solvent
for the second wash. When washed in TPM,
Flexible 80A Resin remains waxy when
printed at any layer thickness and requires
post-cure. Post-curing removes the waxiness.
For parts printed in an engineering-
focused resin (such as those in the Rigid,
Tough & Durable, and Flexible & Elastic
families), post-curing ensures that the parts
reach their optimal mechanical properties
and can function as designed. There is only
one recommended post-curing time for
Flexible 80A Resin.

Questions View All Responses

What is the percentage of glass fiber in the nylon?

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The data sheet says the coefficient of thermal expansion is “ 0,1 10⁻⁴ / K”. If I assume the European convention for comma rather than decimal point I would read this as 0.1 x 10⁻⁴. Normally CTE is expressed in units of 10⁻⁶ meters/meter. Is the CTE of this material really half that of aluminum and 1/10 of that of most nylons, 10 x 10⁻⁶? As a liquid, it would have the CTE of regular nylon but as it cools, the glass puts the nylon into severe strain, probably why it is difficult to print. Clearly a bed temperature and heated environment will be critical, and cooling should be gradual and uniform. But really the amazing fact is that this CTE is less than 1/2 that of Aluminum, 23.6x10⁻⁶ and nearly that of Titanium, 9.7x10⁻⁶! The plot of CTE over temperature is a necessary component of the spec sheet. Does water absorption cause the printed parts to crack? Thanks!

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Using a stock Ender 3 Pro. What additional upgrades would be necessary to maximize print quality for NylonG?

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how well can the white nylonG transmit light? As in, Will it allow me to illuminate the print with a light source on the inside? trying to avoid clear PETG and need a stiffer polymer, so despite the vulnerability to UV light, uncoated, this material was suggested to me

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Does this filament need an enclosure to print properly?

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The technical data sheet states a "linear mould shrinkage" of 0.3. 1) Does this mean 0.3%? 2) Does the Matter Control slicer software scale up my model by 0.3% in order to accommodate the shrinkage in the final print, or is this something I should account for manually? 3) Is there a recommended cooling / curing process for the NylonG material so that I know that after a certain amount of time, shrinkage is largely over?

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Can you please explain what are the best practices to prevent white NylonG from getting yellowish after print?

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I've bought a roll of this filament and so far every attempt to print a file with it has failed to adhesive to the build plate. I've tried garolite and retraction speed and distance whats the settings on that for ender3 v3 ke

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does anyone know what the best support spacing is for top and bottom for z axis only?

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Is there an approved annealing process for this filament? No matter how much magigoo i use chamber temp, i get minor warping (parts i'm printing take 24 hrs +). I would like to relieve the internal stresses to hopefully straighten my parts out.

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Is this a pa6, 66, 12 or something different?

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The data sheet says the tensile strength is 95 MPa using ISO 527. Other manufacturers publish 3 strength values: xy, yz, xz. as a 3D printed structure is non-isotropic. (Meaning the material strength properties are different in each direction). The weakest direction, I suppose, is the direction that tests layer adhesion. Can you give me a better idea of how the material was tested? Were printed test samples used or molded samples, etc...

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Can a Ender 3 with Micro Swiss hotend and extruder print Nylon G with stock thermistor and heat canister?

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We print straight out of our let it start dehydrating for about an hour or two at 75 c max setting I just set the time for 12 hours and after an hour or two we start our printers and we feed directly into our enclosed printers on garolite with magigoo pa and hardened nozzle all metal hotend and just let it print

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First print we did was perfect at 260c bed at 75c. I’m using a carbon fiber print bed and magigoo PA adhesive. I am using an extremely modified Ender6 with a slice engineering mosquito magnum with a Bondtech DDX extruder. Seems to me the extruder is as important as any other settings as your Esteps must be perfect. My only dislike is the orange is not as bright as it shows in samples. Amazing filament.

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How much does the spool weigh for .5kg/1.75 ?

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For everyone talking this product down…Try HARDER!!!! It’s by far my favorite material and the finish is insane ONCE you figure it out lol..you will see a nice glitter finish and 0 layer lines…I went through rolls with of this stuff until I got it…TRY HARDER…I promise it’ll be worth it in the end…I print on a modded ender 3 with or w/o an enclosure sometimes, I’ve successfully printed “big” entire build volume models …trust me I was pissed AF for a long time until I figured it out lol…

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You appear to no longer carry Dupont Zytel. How does this compare, especially with settings?

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This filament have the same warping problem like Nylon X ??

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I am trying to print apart using black NylonG. I have made 3 attempts so far and each time The part warps and one of the corners comes loose from the bed. With each attempt I make it further into the print but end up with the same result. I’m using a CR10s pro with no part cooling fan with printer in an enclosure and an internal temp of 35c inside enclosure. First attempt: Glass bed, @ 60c, nozzle 260c, NANO polymer adhesive from VisionMiner, printed with a brim and used recommended feeds recommended from MatterHackers. Second try: same as before but 80c on bed Third try: 90c bed temp, 25% feed rate on first layer, 50% second then 100% for remainder. I have used about 375g of material thus far. I am using 100% infill for this part which I’m share doesn’t help. Any recommendations?

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I have never printed with nylon so, I am learning about it. Why do you need to dry it? Is it because it has a lot of moisture in it from the factory or do you have to do this every time?

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Can the glass fibers fall out during printing or when you touch it like with Colorfabb XT-CF20, I'm really scared of breathing in or getting glass fiber splinters with this. The only hazard i see is a burn hazard on the safety data sheet.

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Went through almost 2 spoils of nylon G now . I have a flashforge creator pro upgraded with all metal hot end and it still isn’t hot enough for good later adhesion . I printed at 40mm/s at 280c and had a decent print but layer adhesion just wasn’t there completely . At least for my Glock frame that is, it seems like you should really be printing this material at 280 plus to get the most out of this material , I even had it sit in the oven for 24 hours at 180c . It is somewhat strong but my PLA plus blows it out of the water as far as strength goes. Do you think I should print with an ender 3 to get better later adhesion since those can go to 300c ?

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Is the 3kg weight the amount of material on the spool? What's the length?

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Can this be printed safely in a standard office with standard ventilation?

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I bought the printdry filament drying system, what would be the best temp to dry this at and for how long?

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