Resin 3D printing is becoming more and more popular with the explosion of inexpensive, highly-accurate machines coming to market from companies like Elegoo, Phrozen, Anycubic, and more. Add to that a large number of colors and bulk pricing available in our MH Build resin and PRO Series resin lines, and anyone can get started quickly and easily in high-resolution 3D printing.

alt="A decorative skull design with detailed flowers in a dark, glittery resin" title="A decorative skull design with detailed flowers in a dark, glittery resin"
A decorative skull design with detailed flowers in a dark, glittery resin

One of our favorite makers (who has a previous Hacker of the Month article outlining her creations here: https://www.matterhackers.com/r/Eyyd8q) is Aura Welsh of Synthetic Ephemera. Aura specializes in ball-joint dolls that are 3D printed in semi-transparent resins that have resin additives, like glitter and special mica powders, added to them to create some truly unique effects. Aura has several years of experience in producing 3D printed models containing resin additives that she sells online to consumers that keep coming back again and again due to the high quality and creative designs in her online store.

Aura let us share her top tips for including resin additives in anyone’s resin 3D printing workflow to help avoid common missteps and to get the best results possible.

Q: What are you talking about when you say "resin additives"?

A: Resin Additives include the following:

  • Mica Powder (ultra-fine mineral or synthetic based pigmented powder that generally has a metallic or pearl/shimmery finish)
  • Glitter
  • Dyes (in powder or liquid forms)
  • Scents 
alt="A very full plate of resin prints loaded with glitter" title="A very full plate of resin prints loaded with glitter"
A very full plate of resin prints loaded with glitter

Q: What sort of resin do I need to use additives like mica and glitter?

A: Thicker, more viscous resin works better but almost all resin will work with some level of additives.

Q: Can I use clear or opaque resin?

A: Both! Clear resins or transparent resins tinted with dye or pigment will give you the most visual bang for your buck when it comes to mica and glitter. Opaque resins take on an almost velvet-like finish and shimmer when using mica powders.

Q: What size glitter can I use?

A: Finer/smaller is better, especially on machines that don't have tilting vat or wiper function to agitate the resin and keep things mixed between layers. That being said, you can use larger glitter. The larger/denser your particles, the faster they will settle out though. so keep that in mind when looking for candidates.

Q: Do temperatures affect additives? 

A: While it won't directly affect the additives (unless you're using something like heat reactive dye or powders for color shifting) temp does change how viscous resins are which will indirectly affect the way the additives settle/mix (except for liquid dyes). However, you should always follow your recommended printing temps for your resins.

alt="Types of glitter that Aura uses for her resin printing" title="Types of glitter that Aura uses for her resin printing"
Types of glitter that Aura uses for her resin printing

Q: Do specific layer heights work better than others with additives?

A: Because of how the particle additives settle and print your specific layer height won't affect things too much. Larger particle sizes may have less "clipping" with thicker layers though.

Q: Do you need to adjust print time with dye/pigment additives?

A:  Only on very dark/opaque pigments. Taking a clear to a dark blue/or black would need a minor increase in time to compensate for the shift in resin transparency

Q: What kinds of dye can I use?

A: You want to look for dye specifically formulated for 3D printing resin (monocure and some other companies have CMYK kits) OR Epoxy dye that specifically lists "non-toxic" or "alcohol-free". Powder-based pigments also work but are much harder to find and more expensive. They work similarly to mica powders, which on their own contain pigmentation.

Q: Can I really add scents to my 3D resin prints?

A: Yes! Scents for candle-making, food, and those formulated for epoxy resins work well. You don't need very much per vat; a few drops at most.

alt="Two extremely detailed wings with glitter for a fairy model" title="Two extremely detailed wings with glitter for a fairy model"
Two extremely detailed wings with glitter for a fairy model

Q: Won't the glitter/mica ruin my FEP?!?

A: It's a possibility, but the chances are low. As long as you are sticking to mica powders and flat-faced glitter (glitter that has a flat surface face on both sides, rather than 3D glitters or sequins) your FEP should stay hole/tear-free. That being said, the added particles do cause mild abrasion and will wear down your FEP slightly faster than with just resin alone. The main concern comes with the particles wedging themselves under the edge of the VAT where the FEP is pulled tight. Over time this build-up may cause the FEP to tear or stretch slightly. Consider using a separate vat for normal resin and additive resins.

Q: What 3D printer types can I use with additives? Does glitter cause SLA lasers to refract/reflect?

A: You can use the most currently available consumer resin machines. LCD-based machines like those from Elegoo, Anycubic, Prusa, and Creality will all work. Laser-based printers like the Peopoly Moai and Form Labs Form 1 and 2 (both these machines have vat agitation) will also work. With the latter two machines, the mica and most glitter, even larger size particles, have had no real effect on the laser path in my personal experience and testing.

Q: How do I clean out my vat after using mica/glitter?

A: Use a plastic scraper (preferably the one provided with your machine or similar - or those found in the MatterHackers Basic or Essentials Resin Kits) to remove as much excess resin from your vat first. Wipe out your pour corner with a paper towel. Then, pour in a small amount of isopropyl alcohol (70% or higher), enough to swish and move around your FEP. Use a silicone spatula or squeegee to scrape/push any residual particles/goop out of your corners, and along the vat edges swishing/swirling the isopropyl around as you work. Wipe it out with a paper towel. Repeat as needed.

You can find more information as well as a wealth of amazing 3D printed resin products on Aura’s main website here: https://www.syntheticephemera.com/